2010/12/25

織完兩條圍巾 Two scarfs woven

In my computer dobby class nine students share three compu-dobby looms. Last week I sign up three and half meter's warp for a commission piece. The commission piece change from door curtain to scarfs. Today I spend whole day ( more than 8 hours) to weave two scarfs. This is not easy to my arms and legs.
The silk weft is dyed with black acid dye; but is not dark enough. Black is a difficult color to dye. It needs more dye stuff and chemical than other color. Normally black yarn and fabric will have more chemical and dye residue. Therefore this not-so-black yarn is better to our body. The design is rather simple. Material, proper structure and density are more important than the pattern regarding a functional hand woven fabric.
Tomorrow these two scarfs will be wet finished and finish the fringe.
這學期電腦多臂梭織課中九位學生輪流共同三部多臂織機,上星期我預訂了3.5公尺長的經線,準備織一件門簾。結果門簾不織了,改做圍巾。今天一整天織了八個多小時,趕快織出兩條圍巾,肩膀和膝蓋有點累。想到古時候專業織工要持續天天織八個小時,實在很吃力。
圍巾想要黑色或暗色,有點厚度。請學生幫忙染蠶絲緯線,結果不夠黑。黑色本來就不容易染,需要加倍量的染料和化學助劑,所以市面的黑色紗線和布料通常殘留較多化學成份,對人及線材都不好。這個不黑的線或許對人體較好吧!圍巾的設計是簡單的變化斜紋,就實用性手織物而言,材質、密度與經緯線粗細搭配會比圖案來得重要。
雖然下機了,還要縫邊、搓流蘇、水洗和整燙,這些後續工作所需時間不比丟梭織布來得少呢!

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