2011/02/11

織完第一片 The first panel was finished

The first panel was finished yesterday. The length is 280 cm!! My design is for three meters high and four panels to make one image. What's wrong? I forgot to add the shrinkage of the warp and the beating is too heavy. It must be careful to control the other panels to match this height. Even though we need to weave test piece to find the aspect ratio of every Jacquard work, the ratio we get will not always 100% accurate. Beating, weave structures and the size of the thread will affect the aspect ratio. If the work is long, the inaccuracy of the ratio will show dramatically. Like this case, the work has 20 cm shortage. If this is a public art or commission piece, I would re-do the weaving. This happened couple times before.
昨天第一片織完下機,一量長度是280公分!!設計是四片三公尺長拼組成一個畫面,現在其他三片要小心控制成和第一片尺寸相近。可能經線的縮率忘記加進去,也可能打緯太重。在織作提花織物時,一定要先織一小段測出經緯比,再依此數字去計算整件作品需要多少道緯線。但經緯比會因打緯力道大小、織紋結構分佈的情況而改變,特別是織一小段來測,總會有誤差。作品短時,有誤差時不明顯。如果作品長時,微小的誤差可以累積出出驚人的長度,就像這次的情況。如果是公共藝術或訂製的作品,那一定要重織,這樣的事就發生好幾次。


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