菊花 Chrysanthemum

過完年，提花研習課結束後，開始使用AVL Jacq3G，測試看看換上新零件的效果。因為經線不長，所以打算織些四季花卉的作品，可以用來裝飾教室。已經完成春蘭和秋菊，再來是夏荷和冬梅。經緯都是金屬線，對織布機而言是負擔比較大的線材，操作幾星期後覺得Jacq3G表現不錯。
Recently a series of flowers from four seasons is undergoing. The loom-AVL Jacq3G-was fixed with new parts and works well with metal warp and weft. Normally metal thread is harsh to hand loom. So my loom passes the challenge. An orchid (spring) and a chrysanthemum (autumn) are finished. Next, lotus (summer) and plum (winter) are the next flowers.

Underneath the loom, part of chrysanthemum is shown.

New test 新測試

Before winter break we need to set a new black warp for the Jacquard workshop. The white warp was not long enough for a complete work; but it should be finished . Therefore this test was woven. This time two images partially overlapped. Image of water is gradually disappeared into white ground. Under UV light the white area has a crying mouth.
It is good to look the work after a period of time.
The shape of wave is distorted by the intervals of white area and has exaggerated quality. The fringe of fabric is getting important now. I want to do more about fringe. How to convey strong power through images is my concern.

under normal light

under UV light

In the dark

Jacquard design workshop class 2 電腦提花密集班第二班結束

電腦提花密集班兩班的課程已經結束
Jacquard design workshop class two is finished. There are some photos of students' woven works.

The last test weaving--weft-backed weave. By using two wefts to create at least four color effects.

Portrait is the popular topic.

This is a repeat pattern.

Unusual color; but quite beautiful.

The whole member of this class.

Jacquard design workshop class two 提花研習第二班上課中

First test weaving

Second test weaving--shade weaving
There are so many eyes on this blanket.

New tool 新工具

Last week we tried a new device for weaving. The clip weighted by a bunch of washers will prevent too much draw-in on the selvage. Traditionally weavers use stretcher which has sharp teeth on both edges to hold the woven part. This way the stretcher will cover some fabric. This alternative way does not block the view of woven part; but might catch the weft yarn during weaving. The new tool worked fine. If the clip has stronger tooth will be better.
上星期試用了替代式的布撐，是彈簧夾綁上一串螺帽。傳統上是在木條、竹條或金屬條的兩端裝有針尖，可以插在剛織好的部分，讓布保持一定的寬度，避免內縮。這種替代式的布撐不會像傳統布撐會遮住布料，也沒有寬度限制，只是比較容易鉤到緯線。使用後發覺真有效用，只是這種彈簧夾和布的接觸面較小，抓力不是很強。

Jacquard workshop class 1電腦提花密集班第一班結束

This week had been an intense week. Eight students of different ages and occupations learned how to design Jacquard fabric and weave it.
電腦提花密集班第一班已經結束，八位來自不同地方、不同年齡和職業的學員，在五天內都學會如何設計提花檔案，並織出成品來。

There are three topics of this workshop: damask, shade weaving and multi-color weave ( weft-backed weave). Students can weave one small test piece after each topic and weave a bigger piece at the end. They are not familiar with hand weaving and spend too much time on weaving. The last piece was finished at 1:30 am Saturday. It would be better if all students can see other people's final works and had discussion. I am sorry about that we miss the most important part of learning--critique. This is the first time that I lost control of the progress of this kind of workshop.
課程中介紹不同的織法，學員可織一個試片。雖然是小小一片，但耗掉不少時間，使得最後的大作品在星期六凌晨一點半才全部織完。結果沒辦法大家一齊討論最後的作品，而這個部分是學習中最重要的部分！這也是密集班課程第一次進度失控，許多人太執著於要親自織出來，但我覺得檢討或討論作品會比親手織布來得重要。畢竟用一百多萬(十年前價格)又不太能操的織布機來練習丟梭子，是有點不智的。



Fist test

 



Test of shade weaving



Test of weft-backed weave



Students with their final works