試作已經完成 The test weaving is finished

The test weaving is finished today. The warp is 10/2 black cotton. The wefts are reflective, luminous and UV yarns. The simple camera can only captures the effect of the reflective yarn. It is difficult to show the luminous part through my camera. If you can see it in person, can experience the subtle effect.

試作已經完成，經線是黑色10/2棉線，緯線有反光線、夜光線和變色線。我的相機只拍得出反光線的效果。改天作品展出時，在現場用肉眼就能感受到微妙的效果。

正常光線時 normal light

使用閃光燈時 use flash

It is luxurious for me to try on different warps on different Jacquard looms in one month. Now this is time to decide and prepare the design of the future projects. There are rough ideas in my mind already. After several testings I will know the possibilities of those ideas.

一個月內可以在不同提花機測試不同經線的效果，是非常奢侈的！現在要開始規劃未來作品的圖案、織法、數量等等，心中本來已有粗略的想法，當完成不同的試作後，就可以更釐清構想的可能性。

圍巾完成 Finishing of two scarfs

Even though the test weaving on the SAMTEX loom is not finished yet, I decide to stay at home to do the finishing of the two scarfs. First, sew the hems by hand and twist the fringe. Then, hand wash it gently and spin it dry. Right after it is spun dry, iron it. When the scarf is finished, it become softer and shining. Especially the loose spun silk yarn gives gentle shine. The client wants black or dark color scarf. The grey scarf is too wide and heavy. I am not sure the client will like it or not. The green one has lightly spun silk weft that make the whole piece is not so heavy.  The grey scarf 's weft is tightly spun silk cord which makes the piece give a different hand feeling.

雖然SAMTEX織機上還有未完成的測試，但還是決定待在家裡將圍巾整理完成。先將兩端邊緣手縫固定，然後將流蘇搓成雙股索狀、手洗、脫水，然後馬上熨燙晾乾，這是我慣用的後續處理方式。處理完成後布會變柔軟，蠶絲緯線也會發出優雅的光澤。此件深灰色圍巾的緯線是高撚度的粗線，以致整體手感較硬。就圍巾而言，有點粗厚。綠色圍巾是用鬆軟的絲綿，所以手感柔軟厚實，雖然布寬有點大，但還是恰當的圍巾。手織布的特徵是流蘇和光整的布邊，是目前用無梭織布機織成的量產布沒有的。以前有顧客反應不要有流蘇，其實流蘇是一定會有的，不是外加的。如果不要有流蘇，那還要特別摺邊縫起來呢！至於圍巾，我認為流蘇是加分的。

織完兩條圍巾 Two scarfs woven

In my computer dobby class nine students share three compu-dobby looms. Last week I sign up three and half meter's warp for a commission piece. The commission piece change from door curtain to scarfs. Today I spend whole day ( more than 8 hours) to weave two scarfs. This is not easy to my arms and legs.
The silk weft is dyed with black acid dye; but is not dark enough. Black is a difficult color to dye. It needs more dye stuff and chemical than other color. Normally black yarn and fabric will have more chemical and dye residue. Therefore this not-so-black yarn is better to our body. The design is rather simple. Material, proper structure and density are more important than the pattern regarding a functional hand woven fabric.
Tomorrow these two scarfs will be wet finished and finish the fringe.
這學期電腦多臂梭織課中九位學生輪流共同三部多臂織機，上星期我預訂了3.5公尺長的經線，準備織一件門簾。結果門簾不織了，改做圍巾。今天一整天織了八個多小時，趕快織出兩條圍巾，肩膀和膝蓋有點累。想到古時候專業織工要持續天天織八個小時，實在很吃力。
圍巾想要黑色或暗色，有點厚度。請學生幫忙染蠶絲緯線，結果不夠黑。黑色本來就不容易染，需要加倍量的染料和化學助劑，所以市面的黑色紗線和布料通常殘留較多化學成份，對人及線材都不好。這個不黑的線或許對人體較好吧！圍巾的設計是簡單的變化斜紋，就實用性手織物而言，材質、密度與經緯線粗細搭配會比圖案來得重要。
雖然下機了，還要縫邊、搓流蘇、水洗和整燙，這些後續工作所需時間不比丟梭織布來得少呢！

新的測試 More test weaving

More test weaving to do. This time I try the SAMTEX loom which has black warp. The wefts are reflective yarn, UV and luminous yarn. At this moment, it looks just like normal monochrome image. I expect it will show different images under different light sources.
前幾天做了一個測試的檔案，今天開始織作。織布機是法國的SAMTEX 電腦提花手織機，機上的經線是黑色棉線(10/2)，緯線有反光線、夜光線及變色線。目前的畫面就是一般的黑白圖片，希望完成後在不同光線下，會呈現出不同畫面。

Regarding the Jacquard mechanical system, this loom is very reliable. But....when the loom is running, it generates loud noise and vibration. Therefore we installed air mounts to absorb the low frequency vibration.

這部提花機是三部提花手織機中龍頭運作最可靠的織機，只是操作時噪音很大，也會產生低頻震動。目前在織機下面裝上氣墊式避震器，希望減少震動噪音傳到樓下教室。

夾織 Inlay or brocade?

專有名詞「夾織」在英文中有 inlay 及 brocade兩種，通常brocade是指夾織的緯線是由布邊到布邊全面地夾入底組織，而 inlay 則是夾織的緯線只在需要的部分來回穿梭；但是在許多提花課程或書籍中則都只用brocade一詞。這次的試作是 inlay 的技法，夾織的緯線繞在小板梭上，在圖案範圍內織作，有點類似綴織。依圖案的分布情況，可能同時需要13個小板梭，也可能只需要2個。此次夾織緯線是反光線，當有強光照射時，會有光芒反射。底組織的經緯線是透明線，所以有半透明的效果。
The test piece is finished. The reflective weft is inlaid onto the transparent web. Some people might think it is embroidered onto the web. When doing inlay, many small shuttles are needed. It is similar to tapestry weaving. For this case, I used 13 small shuttles at one time to weave some complex areas.

試驗夾織 Experiment of inlay weaving

Today the transparent warp of the Jacq3G Jacquard hand loom is ready for weaving. For this warp, image is inlaid onto the transparent background. In the photos the translucent background is hard to show. It is also difficult to see the yarn during weaving.
家裡的提花織布機終於整好經了，先試驗夾織的效果，將反光線夾織在透明線的經緯結構上。照片中透明線的底組織幾乎看不出來，事實上在織作時，也不容易看清楚。

 

Recently I am doing experiment of various special yarns. They are all related with light. It is hard to record the effect by camera. This is the piece woven last week. It will has color changing effect.
最近嘗試一些特殊線材，都是和光線有關。下圖是星期五完成的習作，應該會有一些色彩變化；但沒辦法用傻瓜相機和我的傻瓜技術拍出來。

好冷 It is very cold!

終於像冬天，但是氣溫一下子降太快又下雨，實在好冷。今天雪莉穿上雨衣上學，路過甘仔店時，忙著整理火鶴花的歐吉桑笑著說：「啊！那隻狗穿雨衣耶！X！」
It is very cold today. Shally wore hand-made rain suit when we walked to the school. One old guy in the grocery store smiled and commented with four letter word.

這個星期一開始用學校的TC-1提花機測試夜光線結合變色線的效果，目前完成約一半。現在畫面只看到不同的白和不銹鋼線，當然要有光線變化才能看出作品該有的面目，很期待週末下機後就可以看到結果。至於家裡Jacq3G的透明經線還在綁線中，還有520支線要綁。
I started a test weaving about special yarns on TC-1 Jacquard loom in school. It is on the half way. The image here only shows various white yarns and stainless steel. When the light changes, the woven piece will has different colors appear. The weaving will be finished this weekend and I can test it with special light. I am looking forward to see it. For the warping of the Jacq3G at home, it is going like a inch worm. There are 520 ends waiting for tying.