2012/04/21

A commission 織作訂製的布料

This fabric will be used for a stage costume. The three brocade wefts are discontinous in order to get a clear background. Insert six small shuttles to complete one brocade lift. This method is very time consuming. Usually the brocade fabric is woven with back side up. But this time I manage the design file a lot and I can weave the right side up.
使用夾織方式,每一區塊各有緯線,所以需要許多小梭子。
The brocade wefts are discontinuous. Each area needs three shuttles.


使用紫外線光照射時  Under UV light

2012/04/14

繼續整經中 Warping Part 2

Each new warp end is tied with one old warp end. 每支新經線依序和舊經線綁好

After 1200 ends are tied, pull out some new warp in order to move all knots to pass heddles and reed.
當1200支經線綁好後,將新經線拉出一段,並保持平直,準備將所有結頭拉過綜絲和鋼筘。

It is better to move one thread at a time. Otherwise, the curly steel wires and sticky knots will get tangled seriously.
最好是每次只拉一支線,以免結頭嚴重卡死無法動彈。

2012/04/07

摺紙和整經 warping and origami

After the 3D lotus is finished, I try more origami craft. Lotus is a most used symbol for mourning. Many people like to use it in their art works. I just find out one of my student makes fold lotus form. So I won't use lotus again. But origami is an alternative way of making 3D form beside tailoring. Some of my earlier works are sewn wire garment. It is very difficult to sew a garment out of woven wire. Because the wire fabric become sharp and dangerous when it is cut out.
立體蓮花完成後,也試了一些其他的摺紙,因為覺得也可以用摺紙的方法代替裁縫來形成立體的作品。這幾天發現也有學生用同樣的立體蓮花造型,紙摺蓮花實在是太常被用來象徵悼念,既然如此,以後就不要用紙摺蓮花了。以前金屬立體作品是用縫紉的方式成形,手織金屬布被剪開後布邊非常銳利,常常縫得雙手傷痕累累,另外也很不喜歡將手織好的布塊剪成一片片。
Uniform I, stainless steel and teflon cable.Jacquard hand woven and hand sewn.
Dress, stainless steel and teflon cable. Jacquard hand woven and hand sewn.


You can find some origami I have tried this week. Some materials were bought from an origami museum in Japanese airport (can't remember the name) many years ago. Strangely, origami project a feeling of cute and childish. But I want to use them to create a totally different atmosphere. It will be a challenge.
下面是這幾天利用時間嚐試的摺紙,有一些材料是多年前在日本過境轉機時,在機場的摺紙博物館買的。奇特的是摺紙往往給人一種可愛和童稚的感覺,而我想創造的氛圍卻是不同的。這會是個挑戰!



In the meantime, a new steel warp is beaming slowly.
同時整經也在緩慢的進行中,目前還在捲線的階段。和一般線材相比,整金屬線實在是一個痛苦的過程。